No Compromises – HAPPI


Consumers are a fickle bunch, but when it comes to their skin, there’s a common thread: they want products that work. But increasingly, they want “clean” products too. While the definition of clean is fluid, for many brands it means a shorter INCI deck that is big on efficacious, natural components and free from materials that have fallen out of favor with consumers. 
 
Babor recently unveiled Doctor Babor Cleanformance Collection, a range that features 95% sustainably-sourced, high-powered ingredients. Each formula works to protect the skin from the first signs of aging using 95% ingredients like red maple bark extract and CBD.
 
According to Andrea Weber, director of research and development, Babor, when it comes to skin care, today’s consumers have access to seemingly endless information, but clear-cut answers can be elusive.
 
“Anyone purchasing cosmetics today wants to buy consciously and be well informed. The first medium you turn to, of course, is the Internet – and then it quickly starts to become complicated,” Weber told Happi.
 
According to Weber, Europe is well advanced when it comes to “clean beauty.” 
 
“The European Cosmetics Directive (EU 1223/2009) regulates the use of major cosmetic ingredients such as UV filters, preservatives, and colorants. And the list of banned substances (Annex II) currently includes more than 1,300 substances. In the US, for instance, there is no official list. There the focus is on regulation through the market by monitoring finished products. That cannot be easily understood with a quick Google search and is precisely what creates the uncertainty,” she said.
 
The idea behind Cleanformance was the creation of a product that clearly states that it is developed according to the highest standards in terms of being “clean” and at the same time delivers strong beauty performance. 
 
While the range is the most recent addition to Babor’s lineup, clean isn’t a new concept for this beauty brand, which has a rich history in professional skin care. Babor was founded in the 1950s by a chemist (Dr. Michael Babor) who developed Hy-Oil, a cleanser made with natural oils. Pharmacist Dr. Leo Vossen then acquired company. Today, the grandchildren of Dr. Vossen run the company, which has 450 employees in Germany alone and is sold in 70 countries and has subsidiaries in Switzerland, Austria, the Netherlands, Belgium, Sweden, Singapore, Canada and the US.
 
“As a German company, we are committed to outstanding quality, sustainable development, and the conscientious use of our resources. Being sustainable is in our DNA. However, Cleanformance takes this philosophy one step further – it contains up to 98% ingredients with natural origin and it is vegan, (and) free from gluten, silicone, parabens, mineral oils, microplastics and synthetic fragrances,” Weber said.
 
The range is extensive, too. SKUs include a 2-in-1 Clay Multi Cleanser that removes makeup and impurities and refines pores without drying skin, and can doubles as a detoxifying face mask;  Deep Cleansing Pads made with biodegradable materials and ingredients like Centella asiatica extract to calm inflammation, and pre- and probiotics to restore the skin’s natural moisture barrier; Moisture Glow Gel Cream, which delivers long-lasting moisture to the skin and is enhanced with light-reflecting pigments to give skin a glowing, healthy appearance; Awakening Eye Cream, a fast-absorbing cream that helps to smooth lines, reduce puffiness and conceal dark circles; and Renewal Overnight, which supports the skin‘s rejuvenation process and strengthens the skin barrier to plump and relax skin while you sleep.
 
There are also CBD products—Phyto CBD Cream, which is made with cannabidiol (CBD), hemp oil and ceramides; and Phyto CBD Serum, which has a blend of phytocannabidiol derived from the leaves, flowers and stalks of the cannabis plant and cannabis sativa oil and extract from the seed of the plant. 
 
The latter, and the range’s Moisture Glow Serum, are Weber’s favorite formulations in the line.
 


 

“They represent maximum effect which is key for Babor and they achieve this effect with 98% ingredients from natural origin – including our Cleanformance signature pre- and probiotics and the maple bark extract. This extract is the very first fully sustainable and clinically tested cosmetic ingredient derived from recycled red maple bark. The serums give your skin that dewy fresh look that is the signature look of Cleanformance,” she said.

 

Babort CEO Michael Schummert expects cleaner living and transparency continuing to grow in prominence as the world grapples with COVID-19 and its aftermath.

 

“I believe this development toward cleaner living can be seen in all parts of our lives. With COVID-19 impacting all of our lives, the aspects of security and transparency is gaining power. It has always been embedded in the clean beauty trend, but less visible.” 

 

According to Schummert, with consumers considering their health and wellbeing more now – especially when it comes to products that touch their skin –there’s an opportunity for the professional skin care market. 

 

“Expertise, individual skin care advice and expert products can help to give the consumer the security and transparency he longs for,” he conclud



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